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Advice on techniques and equipment The following articles outline safety techniques and how best to take care of equipment. Share | Carabiners: How strong are your carabiners? Lionel Kiener, Safety Commission, UIAA 2009 Karabiner Breakings when Using a Figure-of-Eight Neville McMillan, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000 Karabiners: Be Aware! Jean Franck Charlet, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000 Attaching to the Rope by Karabiner? Pit Schubert, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000 Ropes: Behaviour of rope under stretching during fall An accurate numerical simulation of the consequences of a fall on the “safety chain” (assembly of rope, fixed points, karabiners, cords and other climbing gears) is essential for understanding the events and conceiving safety methods. Authors: Vittorio Bedogni (CAI), Andrea Manes Marking of Ropes by End-users NOTIFICATION: Tests show that marking ropes with liquids such as those provided by felt-tipped pens can damage them; even with those markers, sold specifically for marking ropes. Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving While it was known that wet ropes lose much of their capacity, the rapid degradation of ropes in abseiling and top roping is surprising. About Ageing of Climbing Ropes Pit Schubert, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000 Important Notice: UIAA Safety Standard 108 on Sharp Edge Resistant Dynamic Ropes suspended Crampons: Anti-Balling Systems for Crampons Michael Larcher, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000   Belaying: Analysis of Belaying Techniques Carlo Zanantoni, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000 Beware of Quickdraws for Self-Belay Neville MCMillan, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000   Bolts Bolt failures on Sea Cliffs Helmut Microys, UIAA Journal 3/2000 Extreme caution advised for anchors in tropical, marine areas   Lowering Off and Abseiling a Huge Difference Pit Schubert, Safety Commission, UIAA Journal 3/2000     Via Ferrata Recommendations for via ferrata construction Chris Semmel und Florian Hellberg, German Alpine Club Safety Analysis Unit, 2008; English translation by Dave Custer, American Alpine Club, 2009

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