Long list for 2014 Piolet d'Or released

21 Feb, 2014

The long list of  potential nominees for the 2014 Piolet d'Or has been released.
 
A smaller group of nominees for the prestigious 2014 awards will be chosen from this super long list published on the Piolet d'Or website:
 
CHINE

Kyzyl Asker (5,842m)

A free ascent of the southeast pillar by Nicolas Favresse, Stéphane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva, and Evrard Wendenbaum in 15 days capsule style. After a new integral start, the climb lies very close to the 2007 Russian route as far as Camp 3 on the pillar. Above, it takes an identical line. Conditions were very cold but the 1,200m route was completed at 7b M7/8 with three portaledge camps.

http://www.thecleanestline.com/2013/12/china-jam-free-climbing-the-south-pillar-of-kyzyl-asker.html

Great Wall of China (north top of ca 5,120m)

Vincent Perrin, Bas van der Smeede, and Bas Visscher made the first ascent of the north face of the north top of the Great Wall of China (opposite Kyzyl Asker): Double Trouble (800m, TD- AI4) was similar to the Swiss Route on Les Courtes.

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41419

Ice Tooth (aka Kang Ri, 6,240m)


First ascent of the east ridge of this peak in the Xixabangma group by Luka Lindic, Nejc Marcic, Luka Strazar, Marko Prezelj, and Martin Zumer with one bivouac. Initial difficult rock led to easier mixed.

http://lukalindic.si/?p=294

Zhalaqueni (5,429m)

Li Yuan, Zhang Xiao Hui and Zheng Chao Hui made the first official and winter ascent of the north (higher) summit of Zhalaqueni in the Baimang Xueshan, reaching the top on 27 January. The three spent three and a half days climbing directly up the east face by a new line they named Excavator (1,300m, WI4+ AI3+ M5). It is thought that over the last 10 years nine teams have unsuccessfully tried to reach this summit, though an unauthorized ascent has been reported.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212324/Baima-Xueshan-Zhalaqueni-5429m

Dayantianwo (5,220m)

First ascent of this granite pyramid in the Shuangqiao Valley by Dave Anderson (USA), Chaohui Zheng (China) and Szu-ting Yi (Taiwan). The three climbed the southwest face; Three Sheep Bring Prosperity (600m, 5.10 R/X 60°).

http://www.climbing.com/news/first-ascent-of-beautiful-peak-in-china/

Eagle Rock (ca 5,300m)

First ascent of the west-southwest face over two days by Marcos Costa (Brazil), solo. Invisible Hand (650m, 5.10+). Also first ascent of Peak 5,180m via west face, solo; Speed Indeed (580m, M3 5.8 70°).

(Unpublished AAJ report)

Eagle Rock (ca 5,300m)

New route on the southwest face, by Japanese Keita Kanehari and Kenji Onodera, joining the Chinese route in the upper section; Hagoroamo (ca 1,100m of climbing, 5.11). No bolts placed.

(Unpublished AAJ report)

Shizi Peak (5,057m)

First ascent of this peak above the Shuangqiao by Yususke Kimura, Takaaki Morikami and Kengo Tagai via a 570m (13-pitch) face climb at 5.10c. No bolts.

(Unpublished AAJ report)

Joey Shan (5,180m)

First ascent of this peak above the Changping Valley by Neil Kauffman, Cameron Kern, and Felix Parham via the south face and southwest ridge; Jianyfonya Dreaming (ca 500m, IV 5.9).

http://www.joelandneilsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2013/11/sichuan-china.html