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Advice and recommendations
A comprehensive list of papers provides advice and are a valuable resource for climbers and medical staff alike. An emphasis is put on health problems that only occur at high altitude. Among the issues included are acute mountain sickness, nutrition and water disinfection. Papers are available in English
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 4 x 4 Health Rules for Mountaineers These general suggestions are designed to guide those who are unfamiliar or less experienced with mountain terrain and who wish to hike or climb. 16 good advice for what to do when you are in the mountains, before the tour, during the tour and in case something happens. Learn more... Back to top
AMS, HAPE, HACE - Emergency field management
Acute mountain sickness (AMS), high altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) are the most important and most common altitude related diseases. Primary prevention is considered the gold standard to avoid altitude illness. Learn how to diagnose, treat and most important how to prevent. Learn more... Back to top  Portable Hyperbaric Chambers A portable hyperbaric chamber is a small inflatable chamber made of fabric, which can fit one person. When it is inflated, pressure is created inside the chamber which simulates a descent of 1500-2500 altitude meters. It is used to stabilise patients with serious altitude illness, so that their condition improves and they can descend to lower altitudes to recover. This paper gives advice on the use of such chambers. Learn more... Back to top
Nutritional Considerations in Mountaineering
There are many additional nutritional issues that must be considered when preparing for any mountaineering pursuit, especially those of longer duration. Therefore the aim of this paper is to briefly outline evidence-based nutritional considerations and strategies that can be adopted to minimise weight loss, and improve health and performance. Learn more... Back to top  Traveller’s Diarrhoea Traveller’s diarrhoea is one of the most important medical problems for trekkers and those taking part in expedition mountaineering. Although the details of the data are still being discussed there is no question that the loss of body water and electrolytes impairs the physical and mental capacity significantly and dehydration increases the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)... Learn more... Back to top
Water Disinfection in the Mountains
Infected water is the most common risk for diarrhoea. This UIAA MedCom recommendation summarises advantages and disadvantages of the several procedures of water disinfection with special regard to the situation in the mountains or at high altitude; and will advise mountaineers on how to prepare safe water while minimising the environmental damage. Learn more... Back to top  How to Check the Quality of a Commercially Organized Trek or Expedition As the number of mountaineers who are joining organised treks or expeditions continues to increase, so too does incidence of altitude-related diseases. The following recommendations should assist the mountaineering tourists to check as far as is reasonably possible, whether their organisation has taken into account potential health risks when planning the trip itinerary. Learn more... Back to top
Model Contract for Health Care on Trekking and Expeditions for Doctors
Being an Expedition or Trekking Doctor is more than being merely a member which advises others in case of a health problem during the trip and who may get a discount on organized trips! An expedition doctor has specific responsibilities, has to provide special skills, and must always accept responsibility for any diagnosis made, whether right or wrong. This contract document attempts to clarify the rights and obligations of the tour operator, the expedition doctor and the expedition, to avoid trouble and misunderstandings during the trip. Learn more... Back to top  Children at Altitude Each year many thousands of lowland children travel to high altitude uneventfully. The majority of these ascents involve trips to mountain resorts, especially in North America and Europe. While altitude travel is without incident for most, some of these children develop symptoms that may be attributed to altitude exposure. The following consensus view described here provides the conservative recommendations that should be helpful for mountaineers and physicians who are required to offer advice about ascent to high altitude with children. Learn more... Back to top
The Effect of Extremes of Temperature on Drugs
Harsh environmental factors – especially heat and cold – can significantly affect drugs, the substances as well as stabilisers, solvents etc. Temperatures inside emergency medical bags have been reported to be between -40°C and +80°C. Such temperature extremes may be even harsher in a mountaineering environment. The following recommendations are given on how to handle drugs under such circumstances, side effects and other drug related matters in the mountains. Learn more... Back to top  The Use of Hiking Sticks in the Mountains Hiking sticks have become popular among many who walk in the mountains. This document explains the right technique for using telescopic sticks and outlines the advantages and disadvantages of hiking with them. It also explains the correct walking techniques which make the use of sticks unnecessary for healthy hikers. Learn more... Back to top
Women Going to Altitude
This document gives advice to women about their risk of altitude illness, the effect of altitude on the menstrual cycle and the use of birth control pills. It also gives advice to pregnant women about the effects high altitudes can have on their health and gives recommendations on how to prevent complications. Learn more... Back to top  People with Pre-Existing Conditions Going to the Mountains This document gives advice to people with medical conditions who want to go to the mountains. It describes the affects altitude can have on conditions such as asthma, heart problems and migraine. It also takes into consideration other risk factors connected to mountain holidays, such as strenuous exercise, lack of nearby medical facilities and change of culture and lifestyle. Learn more... Back to top
Contraception at altitude
A large proportion of women do not principally use contraception during their travel for contraceptive reasons but for regulating and controlling their periods.This paper focuses specifically on the use of contraception during altitude sojourns and reflects the official standard recommendation of UIAA MedCom, which is based on current literature. Learn more... Back to top Work in Hypoxic Conditions Until recently only mountaineers and high altitude residents were exposed for prolonged periods to a low oxygen (hypoxic) environment. Over the last decade artificial hypoxic rooms have been built as a fire preventative environment for libraries and are now also used for Hypoxic training for athletes and other purposes. Learn more... Back to top
Travel to Altitude with Neurological Disorders
The present review examines several neurological conditions and the problems posed by travelling to high altitude, and in particular whether the underlying disease is likely to worsen. The neurological conditions include migraine and other types of headaches, transient ischemia of the brain, occlusive cerebral artery diseases, intracranial haemorrhage and vascular malformations, intracranial space occupying mass, multiple sclerosis, peripheral neuropathies, neuromuscular disorders and epileptic seizures. Learn more... Back to top Travel at high altitude An easy to understand leaflet for people going to high altitudes. It gives advice on how to avoid serious altitude illness and other health problems. The leaflet is prepared by Medex with support from the UIAA. It describes going from sea level to anywhere above 2,000m. This booklet is available here in many languages. Learn more... Back to top
Recommendation for prevention and control of Legionella infections
Legionnaires’ Disease or Legionellosis is the term used for infections caused by Legionella pneumophila and other related bacteria. Legionella bacteria are only dangerous in respirable form and generally only in susceptible individuals for whom inhalation of the bacteria in aerosols or water droplets (showers) may cause severe pneumonia and, in extreme cases, death. Learn more... Back to top Injury Classification for Mountaineering and Climbing Sports In the past 20 years several studies (pro- and retrospectively) were conducted to evaluate the injury and fatality risk of rock, ice and mountain climbing. A simple and common protocol was developed, by the UIAA MedCom to report injuries in mountaineering and climbing studies. This protocol includes the use of a single climbing grade reference that converts UIAA climbing grades into a standardised metric form. Learn more... Back to top
Blood borne infections in climbing
Climbing often involves travel to foreign and remote destinations, whether for competitions or personal pursuits. Sustaining cuts, abrasions or lacerations, typically on the fingertips in contact with holds, is a common occurrence in climbing. Learn more... Back to top.jpg) Eye Problems on Expeditions Visual loss in the wilderness setting is potentially fatal. Firstly it may be a warning sign of a serious systemic problem and secondly the patient may lose their functional independence and ability to respond to objective danger. Learn more... Back to top
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Medical Commission (0).jpg) All the medical information on this site is collected and presented by the UIAA Medical Commission, which is a worldwide forum of doctors who are specialized in the different fields of mountain medicine. Learn more... Medical resources   English UIAA MedCom Recommendations - vJan11
(3612.5 Kb) German UIAA MedCom Recommendations - vApr11
(2272.9 Kb) Italian UIAA MedCom Recommendations - vApr11
(1326.8 Kb) Polish UIAA MedCom recommendations vAug11
(1276.4 Kb) 2013_Updated_Recommendation_15_English
(366.2 Kb) 2013_Updated_Recommendation_15_German
(330.2 Kb) 2013_Updated_Recommendation_15_Italian
(392.2 Kb) 2013_Updated_Recommendation_6_Polish
(245.5 Kb) Recommendations - ICAR & ISMM |
