Seven Standards

Training Standards evaluation course in Nepal (Photo: Steve Long)

What follows are summaries of the minimum specifications for pre-training experience, skills and knowledge that should be the content of the scheme being proposed for approval.

Where appropriate the Activity Standards may be used in combination. If the proposed scheme includes activities at high-altitude, in tropical regions or avalanche terrain, it must be used in conjunction with the relevant Additional Standards.
 
For full details about all of the seven standards, please review the UIAA Standards for Voluntary Leaders and Instructors (Guidance notes for Member Associations’ training and assessment schemes).

Mountain Walking and Trekking (summer)

This standard may include steep terrain, scrambling, and overcoming obstacles such as small rock steps and patches of snow or ice. This standard is not designed for use in situations that require the techniques of mountaineering to make progress, such as rock or ice climbing.

The scheme must define the type of terrain that it applies to, and the type of terrain that is outside the scope of the qualification.

The candidate should not be less than 18 years old at the time of assessment.

Winter Mountain Walking and Snowshoeing

This standard may be limited to low angle terrain or tracks that have very limited exposure to avalanche hazards or are in avalanche-controlled areas. However, if the scope of the scheme is to include travel in avalanche terrain it must be used in conjunction with the Avalanche standard.

This standard is not designed for use in situations that require the techniques of mountaineering to make progress, such as rock or ice climbing.

Sport Climbing (i.e. single or multi-pitch fixed equipment)

A sport climb is defined as being fully equipped with bolts for protection and belay anchors. This standard is only valid for climbing areas with easy approaches and descents (i.e. no navigation or mountaineering skills required).

Rock Climbing (with leader placed protection, and single or multi-pitch)

This standard is only valid for climbing areas with easy approaches and descents (i.e. no navigation or mountaineering skills required) unless it is combined with the Mountain Walking and Trekking (summer) standard.

Ice Climbing

This standard is only valid for climbs with easy approaches and descents (i.e. no navigation skills required and minimal exposure to hazards). If the scope of the scheme is to include travel in avalanche terrain, it must be used in conjunction with the Avalanche standard.

Alpine Climbing

Ski Mountaineering
 
Additional Requirements

The Additional Requirements are to be used where appropriate with the Activity Standards.

High Altitude: The scheme must include experience, skills and knowledge about:
  1. The process of acclimatisation
  2. The symptoms and treatment for mountain sickness
  3. Emergency procedures in the event of acute mountain sickness

Specific Regions: The scheme must include experience, skills and knowledge about:
  1. Special environmental considerations
  2. Special environmental hazards
  3. Survival techniques
Avalanche Terrain: The scheme must include experience, skills and knowledge about:

  1. Snow structure, avalanche types, terrain features and triggers
  2. Avalanche information, observations and decision making
  3. Rescue organisation, searching and emergency care