To bolt or not to bolt, discussed at Mountaineering Commission meeting

UIAA Training Standards and attempts to find a global consensus on bolting were two of the highlights discussed at the meeting in Moscow of the Mountaineering Commission. The following report is from Phil Wickens, commission secretary: The UIAA Mountaineering Commission met in Moscow, Russia, in November 2010. The...

UIAA initiates dialogue to reduce climbing red tape

Leading members of the global climbing community have discussed the concerns of climbers and challenges of undertaking expeditions to high and remote mountain ranges. The frank and open debate took place on the sidelines of the 2010 UIAA General Assembly in Bormio, Italy on October 8....

Alpine Journal editor goes on Swiss odyssey

Editor of the American Alpine Journal, John Harlin III, is attempting to become only the second person to encircle Switzerland, following its largely mountainous border. “According to simple map-distances, I’ll cover roughly 800 kilometres by bicycle and kayak and 1,000++ kilometres on foot—including lots of technical...

UIAA responds to Everest age restrictions

The UIAA welcomes China’s decision to ban people under 18 years of age from climbing Mount Everest. According to press reports and climbing and trekking agencies in Nepal, the decision was taken on June 10 by the Lhasa-based Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) - a branch...

New classification system for reporting injuries

The UIAA Medical Commission has released a new recommendation to improve the reporting of mountaineering injuries. In the past, the expert panel says, “objective reporting of the injury site and its severity varied according to the injury definition and methodology used”. This led to different conclusions...

Training assessment programme sees large demand

The UIAA’s Mountaineering Commission is reviewing its international training assessment and accreditation programme, due to the large demand from national federations. The work of the Training Standards Working Group (TSWG) was in the spotlight at a recent meeting of the Mountaineering Commission in Montserrat, near Barcelona, Spain. The meeting...

Japanese climbers denied access to Bugyai Kangri in Tibet

Japanese climbing team says it was turned away by locals from attempting a first ascent of Bugyai Kangri (6,328m) despite having received official permission from the Chinese authorities. The climbers, through the UIAA, want to raise awareness of permit issues in the sensitive border area in...

New code lays out ethics and best practices

The UIAA is updating a mountain code, putting into ink mountaineering’s longstanding values of good sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment. The draft code is intended to reach all who love mountain sport, from the hut-to-hut hiker to the expedition alpinist. It also addresses...