Years of extensive research and development by the UIAA Safety Commission continue to come to fruition. In July, the UIAA released Standard 130 Load Sharing Devices and has recently published a Standard dedicated to Avalanche Rescue Probes, Standard 157, the first of its kind worldwide. Following six...
The 2020 UIAA General Assembly (GA) was held on 23-24 October. Owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, the annual meeting took place online for the first time in the federation’s 88-year history. A record number of delegates - 130 representatives from 68 countries - joined on...
If the fallen climber isn’t injured and knows how to ascend a rope, crevasse self-rescue will be his/her quickest escape. Precautions Plan for self-rescue before a fall: “If I fall, brace yourselves as much as possible, install an anchor and keep the rope tight. I will climb...
The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – has launched a Donate initiative to help raise funds for mountain-related projects worldwide. A dedicated Donate page on the UIAA website was one of the ideas put forward by a number of member associations and partners during...
Assistance and gentle reassurance can be helpful when moving the group over an exposed section, where a fall would be serious; or you can install a safety line or fixed rope. In either case, do not hesitate to rope up less experienced or less skilled hikers if a...
One of the UIAA’s core services and direct benefits it offers member associations comes courtesy of its training qualifications and programmes which are both supported by a rich library of practical information. At October 2018’s UIAA General Assembly, details on the impressive collaboration between the UIAA,...
The UIAA Alpine Skills Series returns with guidance on which knot to use when joining two ropes. Climbing on two ropes allows for smoother ropework and the opportunity to divide up the load on the approach. For long rappels, you’ll tie the two ropes together. You’ll...
This latest article from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills series focuses on extricating yourself from a crevasse. Precautions: Plan for self-rescue before a fall: “If I fall, brace yourselves as much as possible, install an anchor and keep the rope tight. I will climb back out.” ...
Always protect your belay station with a redirect point in order to limit the consequences of a lead fall. Ideally this should be a high anchor that is separate to the belay station, however this is not always possible. If the belay station is bomber, the lead climber can...
Your partner is in trouble (e.g., knot stuck in his rappel device, friction hitch has jammed, etc.)—he is stuck mid-rappel! The following steps will let you free him either from above or below. Freeing your partner from above 1 — Reach your stuck partner by rappelling down the rope under...