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11/07/2009
In Mountain Medicine

Latest advice on neurological disorders and medical contracts

he documents on the disorders and contracts for expedition doctors are the latest in a series of recommendation papers published by the UIAA Medical Commission. The “Travel to Altitude with Neurological Disorders” paper looks at different neurological conditions and the problems they may cause at altitude. It assesses the affects altitude may have on the conditions and provides advice on whether or not they are likely to worsen. Migraines, transient ischemia of the brain, multiple sclerosis, neuromuscular disorders and...

26/06/2009
In Members Area, Mountaineering

Pit Schubert receives UIAA honour at OutDoor trade fair

Engineer and mountaineer Pit Schubert was honoured by the UIAA and DAV (German Alpine Club) on July 16 at the OutDoor trade fair in Friedrichshafen, Germany. The international federation and German club chose to put the spotlight on Schubert for his lifetime contributions to making mountaineering and climbing safer. The German climber played a major role in establishing the UIAA Safety Label, recognised as the world's leading standard for mountaineering equipment. "When I started my work on safety...

25/06/2009
In Safety

First-ever safety standard for braking devices

For the first time, the UIAA has developed a series of tests for braking devices designed to give climbers and mountaineers confidence that these critical pieces of gear meet the federation’s strict safety criteria. The UIAA Safety Commission adopted a draft of the first-ever safety standard for braking devices at its May meeting in Golden, Colorado. The standard, which will be published and available from September 30, 2009, lays out performance parameters and testing procedures for...

18/06/2009
In Mountain Protection

Exemplary eco-efficiency shown again on Mt. Everest

The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission has praised the efforts of the members of the Eco Everest Expedition 2009 for highlighting environmentally friendly practices in mountaineering. For the second year in a row, the expedition - lead by Dawa Steven Sherpa - displayed eco-sensitive, cost-effective ways of climbing the mountain last month. The team’s aim was also to raise awareness of the threat global warming poses to the Himalayas. Linda McMillan, president of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission, congratulated the...

16/06/2009
In Mountain Medicine

Urgent action needed to prevent deaths among Himalayan pilgrims

The UIAA Medical Commission says better education is urgently required to prevent the deaths of pilgrims going to high altitudes in the Himalayas. High-altitude sickness may have been responsible for the deaths of at least eight Indian pilgrims over the past couple of weeks during the pilgrimage to the Kailash Manasarovar area, located at 4,560 metres above sea level near the Nepal-Tibet border. “Because pilgrims typically ascend very rapidly by helicopter, planes or vehicles, they are unable...

27/05/2009
In Mountain Protection, Mountain Sustainability, Mountaineering

Executive tackles reform and new Mountain Code

The UIAA is moving forward on issues of key concern to the world’s mountaineering community. At the recent meeting in Plas Y Brenin in Wales, the Management Committee took action on the reform of UIAA commissions, drafting a “Mountain Code” on ethics and best practices, and examining the role of the UIAA in the Olympic Movement. The Management Committee (executive level responsible for policy implementation) agreed to merge the Access and Expeditions commissions to improve effectiveness. Clare...

17/05/2009
In Mountain Medicine

Medical Commission gives advice on contraception at altitude

The document, the latest part of a series of recommendation papers by the commission, is a valuable source of information for women going on expeditions, especially to altitude. It provides the most up-to-date information on the topic. (see "Advice and Recommendations" page). A lot of women using contraceptives on expeditions, or at altitude, are doing so in order to control or regulate their menstruation cycle, and not just for contraceptive reasons. This document has been produced...

08/05/2009
In Mountaineering

Mountaineering Commission investigates training, accident issues

Training programmes, climbing accidents and traditional values were discussed at the recent Mountaineering Commission meeting in Chamonix, France. During the meeting delegates evaluated the work of the commission and its two working groups: the Training Standards Group and Legal Experts Working Group. A number of key topics were discussed at the event, including the recent collaboration between the commission and the Petzl Foundation. The aim of this union is to assist developing countries to establish national leader...

06/05/2009
In Mountaineering

Classic routes highlight of Russian meet

Climbing on the impressive traverses of the Bezengi wall and the Northern Array will be the main events of an Open International Mountaineering Meet set in Central Caucasus, Russia. The meet is organised from July 25 Climbing on the impressive traverses of the Bezengi wall and the Northern Array will be the main events of an Open International Mountaineering Meet set in Central Caucasus, Russia. The meet is organised from July 25 - August 8 on the...

15/04/2009
In Mountain Sustainability

Young Sherpas race to raise awareness of glacial lake floods

Young Sherpa conservationists are organising a race on June 18 to draw attention to the devastating effects of Global Lake Outburst Floods (GLOF) in the Himalayas. The The Beat the GLOF Action Run will be the highlight of the Imja Tsho Action Event 2009, and has been initiated by Nepali mountaineer  Dawa Steven Sherpa. The race will demonstrate that even the fastest runner cannot escape from a GLOF, a flood which is caused when lakes formed by melting ice...

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