DETAILS: ICE CLIMBING TRAINING CAMPS IN RUSSIA AND IRAN

Two of the UIAA’s member federations are organising dedicated ice climbing training camps ahead of the 2018-2019 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. The camps will be held in Kirov, Russia and in Polour and Meygun, Iran. The former is organised in conjunction with the Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) and the latter with the I.R.Iran Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation (IMSCF). Kirov, Russia All age categories are invited to participate. The tentative dates for the camps have been set: Training...

BLOQUEANDO: UIAA SUPPORTS ROCK CLIMBING DEVELOPMENT

Two of the three South American festivals recognised as part of the annual UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award recently held their 2018 editions. In this article we profile a hugely successful edition of BLOQUEando, the festival awarded the 2018 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Development Award. The UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award, set up in 2015, is a channel for the UIAA to support and promote global rock climbing development. Its annual focus on a different continent ensures...

Safety alert for FIXE Lower-Offs

The UIAA Safety Commission, through DAV Safety Research, has again received information about a broken chain link from a FIXE belay anchor. As a consequence, the UIAA Safety Commission now recommends replacing all FIXE chains made from INOX. They can be identified by the “INOX” imprinted on the hanger. Case History [caption id="attachment_71815" align="alignleft" width="236"] Photo 1: FIXE belay anchor with two broken chain links[/caption] In the summer of 2015, DAV Safety Research was sent a torn chain...

2019 International Youth Ice Climbing Camp in Guillestre, Hautes Alpes

Please note registration for this event is closed as of 21 January, 2019. --- Registration is now open for the 2019 edition of the annual UIAA Global Youth Series Ice Climbing Camp in Guillestre. The main goal of this youth ice climbing camp is to learn and practice many forms of ice climbing: one pitch, or routes with many pitches. Dates: 24 February - 2 March, 2019 Location: In Guillestre, near Briançon in the French Alps (region Rhones Alpes, departement 05, "Hautes...

UIAA TO CO-HOST PREMIERE OF THE DAWN WALL IN SWITZERLAND

Winner of the UIAA prize at the 2018 Trento Film Festival, The Dawn Wall, a film which charts Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s epic attempt to scale the rock face by the same name, has recently be launched to international acclaim across North America, Europe and Asia. In partnership with Pathé Cinemas, Red Bull, Adventure Film Tours and the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC), the UIAA will co-host the Swiss premiere of the film in Bern on...

A GUIDE TO THE
2018-2019 UIAA ICE CLIMBING EUROPEAN TOUR

Four European Cup events will form the 2018-2019 UIAA Ice Climbing European Tour. All events are Lead only. The European Tour concept was first introduced by the UIAA for the 2018 season and was positively received by athletes. The events afford further opportunities for athletes to compete in between World Cup meets and more importantly provide the next generation of ice climbers with a platform to enter the competition side of the sport. The European season starts in...

UIAA AND IFSC DISCUSS MATTERS OF MUTUAL INTEREST

On 30 October 2018, Board-level representatives from the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) and the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) met in Paris to discuss, in a constructive and friendly atmosphere, matters of mutual interest. A follow-on meeting is planned for Spring 2019. The participants would like to thank La Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FFME) for hosting the meeting at their offices....

2018 UIAA CODE OF ETHICS

Approved at the 2018 UIAA General Assembly, the new UIAA Code of Ethics applies throughout the world to all members of the UIAA Management Committee, the UIAA Executive Board, Commission Presidents and delegates, and any person who acts or is entitled to act on behalf of the UIAA. Anyone who belongs to one or more of these groups is invited to carefully read the document. One of the subjects addressed in the Code of Ethics is conflict...

OUTDOOR RESEARCH SIGNS FIVE-YEAR DEAL WITH UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR

Commencing in late November with a European Cup event in Bern, Switzerland, the 2018-2019 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour will be the largest since its conception in 2002. Comprising six World Cup events on three continents, four European Cup events and three unique World Championships, including an innovative combined format, the new season will herald a number of developments. Another major change sees Outdoor Research succeed The North Face Korea as official World Tour title...

SKILLS SERIES: HOW TO EXTRICATE YOURSELF FROM A CREVASSE

This latest article from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills series focuses on extricating yourself from a crevasse. Precautions: Plan for self-rescue before a fall: “If I fall, brace yourselves as much as possible, install an anchor and keep the rope tight. I will climb back out.” Make sure the climbers up on the surface have braced themselves properly. Wait until they’ve installed an anchor before you ascend the rope. Required equipment: Two ascending devices It’s much easier...