MOUNTAIN CLASSIFICATION
As part of its commitment to developing international standards for mountaineering, the UIAA officially classified the 82 recognised 4,000m summits in the Alps. In March 1994, the UIAA Bulletin (newsletter) published – in collaboration with the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) – an official list of the 82 Alpine summits higher than 4,000m.
The Bulletin States
In the Alps the morphology of the peaks and summits above 4,000m is quite varied. There are single massive mountains with a well-defined morphology, but also more ‘ragged’ mountains, with several tips, small peaks, shoulders and small reliefs which are above 4,000m and often bear an altitude mark but no name on the maps.
The basic principles that guided the compilation of the list included:
1. General concept of summit: any point of the alpine surface which is elevated by a certain difference in height in respect to the surrounding ground.
2. Any summit must be ‘autonomous’ in the sense of possessing individuality, interest, and other characteristics in order to be included in the ‘alpine summits of over 4,000 m’.
3. The list is intended to be primarily for mountaineers. Therefore, it is not based only on topographic criteria (which are anyway the main element), but also on complementary, more subjective criteria which could change the evolution of alpinism.
4. A certain number of summits, with a well-defined morphology, are automatically included in the list. For the choice of other summits, however, even for some included in precedent lists, but considered to be at the brink of acceptability, other criteria of choice had to be applied.
The criteria of choice applied was:
1. Topographic criterium: for each summit, the level difference between it and the highest adjacent pass or notch should be at least 30 m (calculated as average of the summits at the limit of acceptability). An additional criterium can be the horizontal distance between a summit and the base of another adjacent 4000er.
2. Morphological criterium: takes into account the overall morphology and aspect of a summit (applied especially for shoulders, secondary summits, rock outcrops, etc).
3. Mountaineering criterium: it takes into account the importance of a summit from the pointof view of mountaineering: the qualities of the routes reaching it, the historical significance, and how frequently it is climbed.
Peak | Altitude | Grade | Country |
Mont Blanc | 4,808.73 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Mont Blanc de Courmayeur | 4,748 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Dufourspitze | 4,634 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Switzerland |
Nordend | 4,609 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy/Switzerland |
Zumsteinspitze | 4,563 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy/Switzerland |
Signalkuppe | 4,554 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy/Switzerland |
Dom | 4,545 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Liskamm (Eastern Summit) | 4,527 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Weisshorn | 4,505 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Täschhorn | 4,491 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Liskamm (Western Summit) | 4,479 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Matterhorn | 4,478 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Picco Luigi Amedeo | 4,469 m | Mont Blanc Group | Italy |
Mont Maudit | 4,465 m | Monte Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Parrotspitze | 4,432 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy/Switzerland |
Dent Blanche | 4,357 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Ludwigshöhe | 4,341 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy/Switzerland |
Nadelhorn | 4,327 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Schwarzhorn (Corno Nero) | 4,322 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy |
Grand Combin (Grafeneire) | 4,314 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Dôme du Goûter | 4,304 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Lenzspitze | 4,294 m | Monte Blanc Group | Switzerland |
Finsteraarhorn | 4,274 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Switzerland |
Mont Blanc du Tacul | 4,248 m | Wallis Alps | France |
Grand Pilier d’Angle | 4,243 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy |
Stecknadelhorn | 4,241 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Castor | 4,223 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy/Switzerland |
Zinalrothorn | 4,221 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Hohberghorn | 4,219 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Vincent Pyramid | 4,215 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy |
Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Walker) | 4,208 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Alphubel | 4,206 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Rimpfischhorn | 4,199 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Aletschhorn | 4,193 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Strahlhorn | 4,190 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Grand Combin (Valsorey) | 4,184 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Whymper) | 4,184 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Dent d’Hérens | 4,171 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Breithorn (Western Summit) | 4,164 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Breithorn (Central Summit) | 4,159 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Jungfrau | 4,158 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Bishorn | 4,153 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Breithorn (Eastern Summit/ western Twin Peak) | 4,139 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Grand Combin (Tsessette) | 4,135 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Aiguille Verte | 4,122 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Aiguilles du Diable (L’Isolée) | 4,114 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey | 4,112 m | Mont Blanc Group | Italy |
Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Croz) | 4,110 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Aiguilles du Diable (Pointe Carmen) | 4,109 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Mönch | 4,107 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Breithorn (Gendarm/ eastern Twin Peak) | 4,106 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Grande Rocheuse | 4,102 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Barre des Écrins | 4,102 m | Pelvoux | France |
Aiguilles du Diable (Pointe Médiane) | 4,097 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Pollux | 4,092 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Schreckhorn | 4,078 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Breithorn (Roccia Nera) | 4,075 m | Wallis Alps | Italy/Switzerland |
Aiguilles du Diable (Pointe Chaubert) | 4,074 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Mont Brouillard | 4,069 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Marguerite) | 4,065 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Aiguilles du Diable (Corne du Diable) | 4,064 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Ober Gabelhorn | 4,063 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Gran Paradiso | 4,061 m | Graian Alps | Italy |
Aiguille de Bionnassay | 4,052 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Piz Bernina | 4,049 m | Bernina Group | Switzerland |
Gross Fiescherhorn | 4,049 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Vincent Pyramid (Punta Giordani/Giordanispetz) | 4,046 m | Monte Rosa Massif | Italy |
Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Elena) | 4,045 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Grünhorn | 4,044 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Lauteraarhorn | 4,042 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Aiguille du Jardin | 4,035 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Dürrenhorn | 4,035 m | Mischabel Group | Switzerland |
Allalinhorn | 4,027 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Hinter Fiescherhorn | 4,025 m | Bernese Alps | Switzerland |
Weissmies | 4,017 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Dôme de Rochefort | 4,015 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Barre des Écrins (Dôme de Neige) | 4,015 m | Pelvoux | France |
Dent du Géant | 4,013 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Punta Baretti | 4,013 m | Mont Blanc Group | Italy |
Lagginhorn | 4,010 m | Wallis Alps | Switzerland |
Aiguille de Rochefort | 4,001 m | Mont Blanc Group | France/Italy |
Les Droites | 4,000 m | Mont Blanc Group | France |
Note:
An extended list includes 46 ‘lesser summits’. These exceptions regard mainly secondary summits or gendarmes which, even though they satisfy the topographic criterium, are part of other, well defined main summits, like the Grand Gerndarme of the Weissorn, or are of little significance like the nose of the Lyskamm. All other 4,000ers which do not meet the topographic criterium have been examined and considered according to the more subjective criteria (morphological, mountaineering).
Have you completed all the UIAA-recognised 4000m peaks in the Alps?
Contact the UIAA with details on your achievement:
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MOUNTAIN CLASSIFICATION
MOUNTAIN CLASSIFICATION