A climb of the highest mountains
in the Americas

There are different routes to climb Aconcagua; from the fearsome south face, passing through the west face, the southwest ridge, the southeast ridge, the Polish glacier and even the normal route. There are also numerous variants. All this technical information can be found written in the published climbing guides that exist. Some of these are:

• ABC Aconcagua by Heber Orona (2010) Ed. Cavier Bleu. In English and Spanish.
• Aconcagua the summit of America by Mauricio Fernandez (2008). In English and Spanish.
• Aconcagua a climbing guide by R. J. Secor (1999), Ed. Mountaineers book. In English.

The following text details only the two most regular routes at present. These are:

1 – Normal Route, through the Horcones Valley entrance
2 – 360° route through the Vacas valley entrance

Both options of ascent have similar technical difficulties, varying in duration and the geographic route.

The following itinerary is one of the examples to ascend through the Horcones Valley. This programme is one of the most famous since it aims to prevent altitude-related complications such as AMS, HAPE, or HACE by promoting a well-balanced adjustment to the environment.

These conditions can be fatal, which is why it is crucial to emphasise the importance of the following acclimatisation plan. Please also refer to the UIAA video content at the foot of this paper.

Day 0 Arrival to Mendoza city (750m)
Day 1 Transfer by car to Penitentes (2500m) or Puente de Inca (2700m)
Day 2 Entrance to Horcones and hike to Confluencia Camp (3400m)
Day 3 Hike to Plaza Francia viewpoint (4000m) and return to Confluencia (3400m)
Day 4 Hike to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp or BC) 4350m
Day 5 Rest Day at BC (4350m)
Day 6 Carrying gear to Camp 1 (5000 m) and return to BC (4350m)
Day 7 Rest Day at BC (4350m). Some groups ascend Cerro Bonete (5004m) this day
Day 8 Ascent to Camp 1 (5000m)
Day 9 Ascent to Camp 2 (5400m)
Day 10 Rest day at Camp 2 (5400m)
Day 11 Ascent to Camp 3 (5960m)
Day 12 Summit attempt
Day 13 Extra day
Day 14 Extra day
Day 15 Extra day
Day 16 Descent to BC (4350m)
Day 17 Descent to the entrance of Horcones (2800m) and return to the city of Mendoza

Day 1

The transfer by bus or rented vehicle can be arranged in the city of Mendoza and takes approximately 3-4 hours. Some climbers spend the first night in one of the lodges in the small villages near the mountain. This facilitates the acclimatisation process and allows organising the loads to be carried by mules and other logistical details. The nearby villages that are usually used are Penitentes (2400m), Puente de Inca (2700m) or Las Cuevas (3100m). The three villages mentioned are located on the margins of the international highway N°7.

Days 2 and 3

The beginning of Ruta Normal is located at the Horcones Valley entrance (32° 48′ 40″ S 69° 56′ 32″ W) 190 km west of the city of Mendoza on highway No. 7.

After going through the entrance permit control at the ranger station in Horcones, the hike begins towards the first intermediate camp on the way to base camp. This camp is called Confluencia and is located at an altitude of 3,400 m.s.l. The hike is simple, well-marked and usually takes about three-four hours. The difference in altitude is 450m and it is a good way to start the ascent and then spend the night in Confluencia.

In Confluencia, you must register with the park rangers and there is a medical service station where it’s mandatory to attend to do the first check up inside the Park. The check-up includes a general medical questioning (prior experience, training history, medications, etc) carried out by a medical professional. After pulse oxymetry, respiratory exam, blood pressure are taken, a specific examination according to the patient is carried out if necessary. Many climbers spend two nights in Confluencia. This allows a gradual acclimatisation process. In addition, during the second day in Confluencia, you can hike up to “Plaza Francia viewpoint” at 4000 m.s.l. From this incredible panoramic point, you can contemplate and take pictures of the famous Aconcagua South Wall, a highly recommended experience.

The hike to the “Plaza Francia viewpoint” and return to Confluencia Camp usually takes a five-hour round trip.

Day 4

The next stage is to hike up to the main base camp (BC) Plaza de Mulas (4350 m.s.l). Known for its demanding length of 20km, this hike typically takes mountaineers between six and nine hours to complete. Beyond being a rigorous physical challenge, it serves as an excellent test of fitness and provides valuable insights into what lies ahead as climbers ascend higher up the mountain. The elevation gain approaches 1000 meters, and while the path primarily consists of trails, there are certain sections where the trails tend to disappear, particularly when crossing small streams.

The final part of the route is called “Cuesta Brava” often serving as the ultimate challenge before reaching Plaza de Mulas. It is a steep slope of almost 300 meters which may seem more intimidating than it actually is. The beginning of the Cuesta is indicated by the presence of an old shelter, now in ruins, once utilized as a camp over 70 years ago. Currently these ruins receive the name of “Colombia” due to some inscriptions that were written on its walls. Some people usually rest here for a few minutes before ascending the “Cuesta Brava”.

Throughout this part of the route, you must pay special attention to the presence of mules. They carry the load and in certain narrow parts of the trek, they can get dangerously close to the climbers pushing them to the sides. Traumatic accidents have been reported on more than one occasion due to this phenomenon.

During this day, climbers will endure a 950m elevation gain in just one day. This can be out of the applicable international guidelines on acclimatisation. However, there are no other camps in between to sleep in. That is why, after that, people rest at base camp for more than one night.

Day 5

During the high season, Plaza de Mulas is often crowded, and it is described as a small mountain village. Several companies offer a variety of services such as meals, lodging, showers, internet access, porters, and guide services. Medical teams, park rangers and the Police Rescue Patrol are also based here. All climbers must undergo a medical check-up before ascending and check in at the ranger station on site.

The acclimatisation process continues in BC and to make the days bearable, day five is often used as a rest day, especially after the long hike and the almost 1,000 m vertical drop of the previous day. Many climbers use this day as an “active rest” and tour the camp, visit an on-site art gallery, check in at the ranger station (which is mandatory) and organise equipment and food to be able to continue with the plan for the following days.

For most people, the next few days mark the beginning of the process of moving gear and food to camps 1 and 2, which is a big task. As performance above 6,000 m.s.l. will depend on the previous acclimatisation process, and as the response to acclimatisation is usually self-paced, it is worth respecting ascent plans such as the one shown in this paper, to make the whole acclimatisation process more bearable.

Please bear in mind the work of the UIAA Medical Commission, which recommends that, once above 3,000 m.s.l., climbers should not sleep more than 500m above the previous night’s altitude and, more importantly, that they should rest for two to four days after this altitude.

Day 7 (alternative Bonete Peak)

Some mountaineers choose not to rest in BC and climb the 5004m Bonete Peak. Its ascent offers an accessible and beautiful alternative from which to take photos towards Mount Aconcagua and its normal route (which is usually seen in large part). The ascent to the summit can be done in four hours and, since you only need to carry water, some food and warm clothes, the effort is not so great. After another day of rest, the real work of ascending the normal route of Aconcagua can begin.

Information on Camps

In the area of the central Andes of Argentina, each camp usually has its own name. The Base Camp in the Normal Route is called Plaza de Mulas. And the following high camps 1, 2 and 3 also have their own names. In fact, they are more known in the park by their own names rather than by their numbers, which facilitates the understanding among all those who climb and work in the place, when referring to a particular geographical location.

High Camp 1 (5000 m.s.l.)

Canada Camp or simply Canada sits on a rocky promontory almost 700 m above BC. The climb is a good introduction to the mountain. The angle of ascent remains constant, and climbers usually cover it between 3 and 4 hours (just the ascent).

The first landmarks are the so-called ” traffic light” just 45-60 minutes from the BC, which marks the first stop for rest and good photos and marks the steepest slope of the day. The second reference point is the so-called “Conway’s rocks”, which appear just after the halfway point, used as a second rest stop to replenish fluids and sit for a few minutes.

Once in Canada, water is obtained from a nearby stream or snow. Water in Canada can be variable in reliability, so treatment is recommended. Please refer to the following UIAA video on water treatment.

It is important to mention that, due to climate change, that during the last three or four seasons and during the sunniest days both the snow and the stream disappear momentarily, forcing climbers to carry water from Base Camp. It is important to keep this in mind especially in January.

The views of the sunsets from Canada are recommended to contemplate and take pictures!

Camp 2 (5450m)

“Nido de Cóndores” is usually used for more than one night, either because of its height, its amplitude or because it offers the last chance to acclimatise before facing the upper part of the mountain.

Nido de Cóndores is located on a wide and flat terrain. There are large tents belonging to the agencies that offer services and the heliport as it works as the last evacuation point for the helicopter (see section below). In addition, there is a small building for park rangers and the police rescue patrol hut. During the busiest times of the year, there are several rescues per day at this camp.

To get to Nido de Cóndores, follow the well-marked road from Canada. The first reference point is the famous “Piedra de los 5 mil (literally, “Stone at 5 thousand”) which is at 5100 meters above sea level and owes its name to old and erroneous barometer measurements. Here people usually rest for a few minutes before continuing to the next point which is at 5,300m and is called “Cambio de Pendiente”. “Cambio de Pendiente” used to be used as a campsite, but due to the degree of exposure to the wind and the scarcity of water, practically nobody uses it.

Finally, the arrival at Nido de Cóndores is marked by the presence of tents and the police rescue patrol hut, which can be seen from a distance. At Nido de Cóndores water is obtained by melting the snow itself or from a small lagoon nearby (10 minutes) from where it is obtained in liquid form. It is recommended to treat the water for consumption.

Some climbers choose to wear light trekking shoes up to Nido de Cóndores if conditions permit. The choice is entirely personal. However, if the mountaineer has not used his or her high mountain boots, it is advisable to wear them for the first time on these stretches to avoid surprises further up.

The nearby rock formations, mountains and surrounding glaciers offer great views from Nido de Cóndores and invite to be photographed. Many climbers choose to spend two or more nights resting at Camp 2 before deciding to continue climbing.

Camp 3 (5960m)

There are two options that are used as Camp 3 and both have almost the same height above sea level. The more regular and higher place is called “Cólera” and the less used one is called “Berlín”. The two camps are only 10-15 minutes from each other. In fact, the older one is Berlin, but it fell into disuse due to human impact (garbage and waste deposit). In its place came Cholera, which over the last 25 years has become the most used option today. This does not mean that it is free of human impact.

“Berlin” (5,900 m.s.l.) is a group of three triangular wooden huts deteriorated by time. These huts were used in the 1960s, 70s and 80s for shelter, but are currently unusable. Water is obtained from melting snow. But the presence of old garbage and human waste means that contamination can become a concern and requires treating the water before consumption. For this reason, mountaineers prefer to use the “Cólera” camp.

If in Berlin there is space for no more than 40 or 50 tents, in Cólera the space is enlarged, being able to double this value.

To get to Berlin from Nido de Cóndores there is a well-marked trail that is easy to follow unless it is blocked by a recent snowstorm. And to get to Cólera from Berlín, the trail continues for only 50m to the north. From there it is necessary to overcome a small rocky projection of 20 meters. To climb these meters there are a series of fixed cables that facilitate the task. Snow can be found more easily in Cólera to obtain water than in Berlin.

Sometimes it may be necessary to use crampons to reach camp 3 (Berlin or Cólera).

If acclimatisation is good, the trip to Berlin or Colera camp should not take more than three or four hours.

Summit Day

The summit day on Mount Aconcagua is a difficult day from a physical point of view. And it does not compare to any predecessor day in the schedule. In fact, many people tend to believe that attempting the summit can be easily reached from Camp Cólera at nearly 6000m. However, the summit days is extremely demanding, and many undesirable outcomes can easily occur if good advice is not followed.

To analyse summit day, the section can be divided into three distinct sections. First, the steep road to “Independencia”. Second, the so-called “Travesía”. And third, the so-called “Canaleta” and the final approach to the summit.

First section up to “Independencia”: Located at almost 6400 meters above sea level, Independencia is a place where you can see an old wooden shelter in ruins. This geographical point marks the end of the first stretch and in this place the climbers take a break to replenish energy, drink some hot tea and get ready for what follows. People usually take around three hours to get here. From this place, progress becomes slow due to the altitude and difficult due to the exposure to the wind and cold. The wind chill here is marked and Independencia is usually the first place from which those who do not feel well or are exposed to freezing decide to turn back.

The second section is called “La Travesía” (“The Traverse”): This section that goes from Independencia at 6400m to the place called “La Cueva” (“The Cave”) at 6700m is usually very exposed to wind and cold. Those who manage to do the section in time and form usually take between two to three hours, even though it has the appearance of being shorter and easier than it looks at first glance.

The third and last section is the most difficult from the mental and physical point of view. It is the so-called “Canaleta” that begins in the place called “La Cueva” at 6700m and culminates at the summit itself at 6960 meters. In “La Cueva” climbers usually rest again for the final stretch and many do it in this place since it is usually protected from the wind, and it is sunny from about 10 in the morning (depending on the time of the season). From this point on, progress becomes much more difficult and slower. Climbers usually take between two to six pitches and stop to breathe. The final section of the “Canaleta” is a left traverse that runs just below the so-called “Filo del Guanaco” (Guanaco´s ridge”). The views from this section to the summit are tremendous and you can admire, among other things, the top of the south wall. Thus, you slowly gain altitude up to the final 15-meter ledge that leads to the summit itself at 6960m, marked by a kind of cross in the shape of a condor.

The “Canaleta” is usually covered in two to three hours. In some seasons or depending on previous storm history it may not be necessary to carry crampons or ice axe up here, but most of the time you have to put them on from Independencia. Sometimes even from Cólera Camp at 6000m.

After the photographs of the summit, it is advisable to descend without delay and to have a safety margin. Most of the incidents on Aconcagua occur during the descent and that is why it is necessary to be very attentive during the descent. After a summit attempt, most climbers choose to spend the night in Cólera or Berlín (Camp 3), due to fatigue after a full day of about 13-14 hours.

It is worth mentioning here, and only as a statistical exception, that a few strong climbers descend all the way down to Base Camp. This is an alternative that can be considered, since the daylight hours can extend until 21:00 or 22:00, thus avoiding another night at 6000m. This approach is only considered for climbers with excellent physical condition and good acclimatisation.

From Cólera or Berlin Camp, the descent to Plaza de Mulas can normally be completed in three to six hours.

Day 17

The trip to Horcones (2,800 m.s.l.) is long and is usually done in one go, stopping for an hour to drink something in Confluencia. After several days on the mountain, climbers feel tired and some choose to rest one more day in Base Camp or pay the helicopter service to make the trip. If you choose to descend on foot, be sure to eat and drink plenty of water. Temperatures rise again as one descends and the body severely feels this hike, which takes place in a dry region. This aspect should not be neglected.

The 360° route that ascends the mountain from Vacas Valley is known by that name because after the summit attempt, climbers descend through Plaza de Mulas and Horcones Valley, which correspond to the normal route. In this way a 360-degree circuit is completed entering through one valley and returning through another. In fact, from Cólera at almost 6000 meters, the ascent is by the normal route. In other words, from this camp the 360 route follows the normal route.

There used to be variants such as the “false Polish” or some other, but due to the ease of the 360° route, these options have almost ceased to be used.

Plaza Argentina base camp is located to the east of the mountain and therefore receives the sun earlier than Plaza de Mulas, at around 07:00. Plaza Argentina offers the same services as Plaza de Mulas and tends to be somewhat less crowded.

Day 0 Arrival to Mendoza city (750m)
Day 1 Transfer by car to Penitentes (2500m) or Puente de Inca (2700m)
Day 2 Entrance to Vacas valley (2,450 m) and hike to “Pampa de Leñas” camp (2800m)
Day 3 Hike to “Casa de Piedra” camp (3400m)
Day 4 Hike to Plaza Argentina (Base Camp or BC) 4200m
Day 5 Rest Day at BC (4200m)
Day 6 Ferry loads to Camp 1 (5000m) and return to BC (4200m)
Day 7 Rest Day at BC (4200m). Some groups ascend Colorado peak only two hours from BC
Day 8 Ascent to Camp 1 (5000m)
Day 9 Ascent to Camp 2 (called Camp 3 of Guanacos) 5470m
Day 10 Rest Day at Camp 3 of Guanaco
Day 11 Ascent to Camp 3 Cólera (5960m)
Day 12 Summit attempt
Day 13 extra day
Day 14 extra day
Day 15 extra day
Day 16 Descent to BC (4350m) Plaza de Mulas
Day 17 Descent to the entrance of Horcones (2800m) and return to the city of Mendoza

Day 2

The entrance permit check is done at Punta de Vacas Ranger Station, right at the beginning of the Vacas Valley. After the check, the hike is relatively easy to follow along a well-marked trail. After five to six hours of hiking you reach “Pampa de Leñas” camp (2850m). It is usually hot during this hike, so it is recommended to carry two or three litres of liquid and to protect yourself from the sun with a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses.

In “Pampa de Leñas” you can get water from a nearby stream and camping is allowed in designated areas. Also, for those who wish, there are food services from some agencies that operate there.

Unlike the normal route that runs from the Horcones entrance portal, where mules go up and down to the base camp in one day, on this route the mules and their muleteers accompany the climber during the three-day trek to Plaza Argentina. Since the distance is greater, a lot of logistics must be coordinated with the muleteers having to leave each day the load ready to be transported by the mules on a previously established schedule.

Throughout this part of the journey, one must be attentive to the presence of mules. Although the mules go at their own pace and usually overtake tourists, they can get dangerously close to the climbers, pushing them to the sides. Traumatic accidents have been reported on more than one occasion due to this.

Day 3

This day the hike is six to hours hours in duration, and people arrive at the camp known as “Casa de Piedra” at 3200m. The hike begins with the crossing of the Vacas River, for which there is a steel bridge used for this purpose. A few minutes before reaching the camp and if you look to the west, you can see the east face of Aconcagua with the Polish glacier and part of the south wall on the left.

In “Casa de Piedra” there are also some agencies that offer services such as food. There is a stream to get water but be careful to do it far from where the mules rest and do their needs. It is advisable to treat the water for consumption.

Day 4

The last day before arriving at base camp lasts about six-eight hours and is the one with the greatest difference in altitude (almost 1000m). The hike begins early with the crossing of the Vacas River and its freezing temperatures. Here there are those who do it with wading shoes or those who pay a tip to the muleteers so that they cross with the mountaineers mounted on mules.

The valley that leads to the base camp is called the “Relinchos” valley, which is the sound that the guanacos make to alert the herd. You may be lucky enough to see such a beautiful animal. This valley is narrow and with ravines where you have to be careful not to fall. After a steep start, the road is less steep and gradually you reach Plaza Argentina base camp at 4200m.

Day 5

Day 5 is usually used as an active rest, touring the camp and organising loads to carry the following days to the upper camps. Several companies offer a variety of services such as meals, lodging, showers, internet access, porters and guiding services.

Medical teams and park rangers are also based here. All climbers must undergo a medical check-up before ascending and must check in at the ranger station on site.

Information about the camps at the top of the mountain (360° route)

As in the case of the Horcones Valley, the way the ascent is made will depend on the acclimatisation strategy. Here is one of the most used options with three extra days as alternatives to bad weather or to change the ascent plan. Some change the rest day at the upper camps and do it at Camp 1 and/or Camp 3 at Guanaco. The options will depend on the individual.

As in the normal route, the names of the high camps are also identified by their own names. And so, the first one is called Camp 1. The second is called Camp 3 de Guanacos (because it was the name of an old route that passed through there). And the third is again called Cólera, thus closing a circle that leads to the normal route.

Camp 1 (5000m)

The terrain up to this camp is very beautiful and runs through a valley through moraines and surrounded by beautiful walls, the south face of Cerro Ameghino (5960m) or the foothills of Aconcagua itself. In Camp 1 there is usually water and if not, it is obtained by melting snow. This hike has a difference in altitude of about 800 meters and a duration of about four or five hours.

Of the three camps, this section may be the most tiring.

Camp 2 or Camp 3 of Guanaco (5450m)

After a well-marked initial ascent, the route becomes flatter and in total it does not take more than three or four hours to reach Camp 3 of Guanaco. Here there is also usually running water or snow. After this camp the trail continues to the already described Camp 3 (“Cólera”) at almost 6000m of altitude.

From here, that is, from Cólera, the description is the same as the normal route from Horcones.

Aconcagua Provincial Park issues four types of permits to enter the Park, depending on the activity to be carried out.

The options are: one-day trekking, three-days trekking, one-week trekking or the high mountain ascent permit (which has a maximum duration of 20 days). Only with the latter can mountaineers have the option of attempting the summit. Each permit has a different cost, depending on the four options mentioned above or on the time of the summer season in which the permit is purchased, or on the nationality (Argentinian mountaineers pay a lower cost than other nationalities).

Regarding the ascent permits, there are two prices, depending on whether the services of a local provider are hired:

• For those mountaineers who do not wish to acquire the service of a local provider, they have to buy an independent climbing permit, which is substantially more expensive.

Those who choose this option should also be aware that they are obliged to hire restroom services at base camp or intermediate camps to reach base camp (Confluencia, Pampa de Leñas or Casa de Piedra depending on the access valley). Permits are processed through a web page and are only issued in Mendoza. There they must be paid ONLY in cash, in Argentine pesos.

• Mountaineers who hire the services of an authorised company (from guided expeditions to individual services, such as a pack mule) are entitled to a discounted “assisted” entrance fee. The hired company provides the restrooms at the base or intermediate camps, so it is not necessary to contract this service separately. The “assisted” permits are managed by the companies, so they can be purchased and paid for remotely. Finally, permits are issued in the city of Mendoza.

Each permit is issued in dollars but paid in Argentine pesos. The price varies each season, but to get an idea, during the month of January 2024, the ascent permits to attempt the normal route was U$800 (with services from a local company) and U$1,300 (without services from a local company).

The UIAA recommends using the park’s website for annually updated information and logistical assistance.

Please refer to additional information on permits in the section below.