Alpine Club claims first ascents of six Antarctic peaks

The following report was sent by the UK Alpine Club: The Alpine Club Antarctic Expedition, led by Phil Wickens, has made the first ascents of 6 Antarctic Peaks, making it one of the most successful mountaineering expeditions to the Antarctic Peninsula in recent years. After being dropped off by IAATO yacht Spirit of Sydney in Deloncle Bay (part-way down the Lemaire Channel), the team hauled sleds for 2 days up the Hotine Glacier to place a camp...

How to prevent Legionella infections in mountain huts

The UIAA Medical Commission has published practical advice targeted at operators of mountain huts to prevent Legionella infections. The expert panel of doctors specialising in mountain medicine decided to investigate the subject following the death of a Spanish climber in Italy in 2009 due to a severe pneumonia from a “Legionella” infection. While taking into account international guidelines, the paper, “Legionella in Mountain Huts, recommendation for prevention and control of Legionella”, keeps in mind the problems and...

To bolt or not to bolt, discussed at Mountaineering Commission meeting

UIAA Training Standards and attempts to find a global consensus on bolting were two of the highlights discussed at the meeting in Moscow of the Mountaineering Commission. The following report is from Phil Wickens, commission secretary: The UIAA Mountaineering Commission met in Moscow, Russia, in November 2010. The meeting was hosted by the Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) and was very well attended by 20 delegates from 14 different countries, and the UIAA President, Mike Morrtimer, again highlighting the increasing strength...

Can UIAA reconcile diverse demands of global community?

How well does the UIAA look after the interests of the world’s mountaineering federations and clubs? At the 2010 UIAA General Assembly in Bormio, Italy, representatives from around the globe voiced their desires – which are as diverse as the mountain cultures they come from. The following statements are excerpted from a small survey of presidents of UIAA Member Federations: Lee Injeong, President Korean Alpine Federation “The UIAA has up to now been focused on European countries. From...

UIAA initiates dialogue to reduce climbing red tape

Leading members of the global climbing community have discussed the concerns of climbers and challenges of undertaking expeditions to high and remote mountain ranges. The frank and open debate took place on the sidelines of the 2010 UIAA General Assembly in Bormio, Italy on October 8. Sometimes just getting to the base of a mountain is a hurdle as great as climbing the peak itself, the well-attended meeting heard. Mark Richey of the American Alpine Club (AAC) led the...

General Assembly discusses safety, environment issues

A host of new initiatives to make travelling in mountains safer and more environmentally friendly were discussed at the UIAA General Assembly (GA). The 2010 GA was held in Bormio, Italy on October 9, and hosted by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). It was preceded by a meeting of the members of the UIAA Management Committee, as well as a special event assessing mountain huts. “Many of our federations operate mountain huts. By providing a place on our website...

Asia joins Ice Climbing circuit will North America follow?

he countdown to the 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup (January 8-March 8) has begun. For the first time, an event will be held in Asia, hosted by the Korean Alpine Federation. There will be Lead and Speed competitions in Cheongsong, Korea, as well as the established events across Europe. The UIAA would like to expand the circuit further, and organize or certify some North American events in order to make them part of the Ice Climbing World Cup. David...

Russia has its first UIAA-certified climbing instructors

In the following report, Anna Stolbova of the Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) describes the successful conclusion of the first UIAA-certified course for Russian climbing instructors: Nine candidates successfully completed the training course on Rock Climbing Instructor programme which took place in the Mountaineering Camp Bezengi in the Caucasus region in June 2010. Organization of the Rock Climbing Instructor Course became possible thanks to the programme of cooperation between the RMF and the UIAA. The long-term aim of the RMF activities is the...

Safety Label Holders reduce carbon footprint

Many UIAA Safety Label Holders are increasing efforts to reduce the environmental impact of their manufacturing processes. Three companies, Grivel, Beal and Mammut, tell the UIAA about their initiatives and why these efforts not only protect the environment but also make good business sense. “Respecting the planet should be logical for outdoor industry players,” says Betta Gobbi of Grivel about the Italian company’s decision to cover the 7,000m2 roof of its factory with solar panels. Grivel says the solar panels will produce enough energy to reduce carbon...

UIAA sends condolences to Graftiaux family

The UIAA is saddened to learn of the death of Chloé Graftiaux, who died on August 21 while descending from the summit along the South Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. “We would like to express our condolences to her family and friends. She was a very kind person and a great climber,” said Pavel Shabalin, president of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission. In January of this year, Chloé Graftiaux attained a...