Training assessment programme sees large demand

The UIAA’s Mountaineering Commission is reviewing its international training assessment and accreditation programme, due to the large demand from national federations. The work of the Training Standards Working Group (TSWG) was in the spotlight at a recent meeting of the Mountaineering Commission in Montserrat, near Barcelona, Spain. The meeting was hosted by the Spanish federation, Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME), and was very well attended by 21 delegates and guests from 14 different countries. Steve Long,...

Diemberger recalls first ascent of Dhaulagiri 50 years ago

Austrian climber Kurt Diemberger, the only remaining person alive to make first ascents on two 8,000 metre peaks, tells the UIAA about the historic expedition to the top of Dhaulagiri. Diemberger will be among the guests of honour at the Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee Celebration in Nepal in mid-May, organized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Fifty years ago, a perfect day came along in the Himalaya, when the sun sparkled and the wind became a whisper, and six...

Nakamura reveals Sichuan’s unclimbed peaks

Renowned Japanese climber and explorer, Tamotsu "Tom" Nakamura, has returned from a recent expedition to Sichuan, China. His report, below, details the many unclimbed peaks in the region. Many of the peaks he refers to can be viewed in this gallery of his photographs. Nakamura report: Unclimbed Summits in Sichuan China 2010 As shown on the map below (see gallery), only a few unclimbed 6,000m peaks remain in Sichuan, China, but there are many alluring peaks exceeding 5,400m – 5,500m which inspire...

Slovenia celebrates milestones

The Alpine Association of Slovenia is celebrating a couple of important milestones in 2010, and is putting the final touches on the country's first mountain museum. The following report on these key anniversaries and events was provided by the association president, Ekar Franc. Aljazev Stolp - Triglav Tower 115 years anniversary of the »tower« on the top of Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia and in the Julian Alps (2864 m) with the first ascent in 1778. This year is...

Big strides for Georgian ski mountaineering on Mt Kazbek

The UIAA Youth Commission is supporting the Georgian mountaineering federation in its efforts to set up a youth programme. At the request of the Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia (MCAG) and its President Zurab Kutchava, the Youth Commission sent Swiss mountain guide Daniel Oberli on an exploratory mission to look at what is needed in terms of technical skills and physical standards, areas where training is needed and how to build a syllabus for youth...

Ice thrills competitors of first-ever youth event

President of the UIAA Youth Commission, Anne Arran, interviewed three key people involved with the first ever UIAA European Youth Ice Climbing Championship which took place from January 16 to 17 in Saas Grund, Switzerland. She spoke to the winner of the women’s competition, a former World Cup star coaching at the event and a route setter. Liubov Mikryukova, age 16, women’s winner Liubov, aged 16, grew up in chilly Kirov, Russia and started rock climbing six years...

Anti-Doping talks held on Ice Climbing sidelines

The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission has held a key meeting on the sidelines of the Ice Climbing World Cup event in Saas Fee, Switzerland on January 24. The commission is responsible for developing and maintaining the UIAA’s doping control programme including in and out of competition testing, result-based testing, random testing and targeted testing. The body also ensures compliance with the WADA code and educating and informing stakeholders on anti-doping policy. The commission’s support for Ice Climbing - the UIAA’s sole competition...

Letter from Ang Tshering Sherpa, president Nepal Mountaineering Association

Ang Tshering Sherpa's letter from Nepal: It has been a very busy few months for me and my family. In a recent development on the dispute of Nepal Mountaineering Association, the Government of Nepal has posted me once again as the President of NMA until such time that another election can be held and the position passed on. The Ministers' Cabinet of the Government of Nepal held a special meeting at Kala Patthar Plateau (5,542 m)...

Advice paper issued on hypoxia

The UIAA Medical Commission has published a new paper that offers health and safety advice on hypoxia. More and more people – no longer just climbers at high altitude - can be affected by hypoxia, a condition in which the body is deprived of an adequate supply of oxygen. For example, hypoxia is now also being used for fire prevention in storage areas, for altitude training in sport and for many other purposes, the Medical Commission says....

Officially published – Mountain Ethics Declaration

The UIAA has published its Mountain Ethics Declaration on December 11 to mark International Mountain Day. The Declaration spells out ethics of sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment, and it was approved at the UIAA General Assembly on October 10. It includes 12 maxims, addressing issues such as the responsibility to assist others in need, the factual reporting of ascents and the use of supplementary oxygen. “It is most appropriate that this declaration be announced on...