First guidebook published of Slovenian modern multi-pitch routes

The Publishing House of the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS, a UIAA full member) has released a new guidebook: Moderne večraztežajne smeri (Modern Multi-pitch Climbs) by Andrej Grmovšek and Viktor Relja. It’s the first of its kind in Slovenia and all the essential information is provided not only in Slovenian but also in English. Andrej Grmovšek and Viktor Relja have compiled 255 routes on 58 rock faces of the Slovenian Alps, ranging from 4b to 8a+...

APPLY FOR THE 2020-2021 UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD

The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission (MPC) is pleased to confirm that it has updated several important assets related to the annual UIAA Mountain Protection Award (MPA). Owing to Covid-19, and as communicated in May 2020, the 2020 and 2021 Awards will now be combined with the winning project announced at the 2021 UIAA General Assembly. The application portal for projects to apply has remained open since 1 March, 2020. The MPC has recently updated the timeline for...

UIAA CONGRATULATES SUCCESSFUL K2 WINTER SUMMITERS

History was made on Saturday 16 January when a team of Nepali climbers became the first to mount a successful ascent of K2 (8,611m) in winter. K2 was previously the only one of the commonly recognised fourteen +8000m mountains not to have been summited during the winter months. Dubbed ‘the Mountain of Mountains’ by legendary mountaineer and UIAA Honorary Member Reinhold Messner, K2 is the second highest in the world and has a ferocious reputation. The...

CHANGES ANNOUNCED TO UIAA ICE CLIMBING SEASON

In response to the evolving Covid-19 situation, the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – has made further changes to the calendar for its current 2021 Ice Climbing season. In November, the UIAA confirmed that no World Tour would be held during the winter of 2020-2021, and instead would be replaced by Continental Competitions with the highlight being the three-week Tour des Alps, a mini-series which would see athletes take on three European Cups and...

UIAA VOLUNTEER SERIES: BUDDHA BASNYAT

Buddha Basnyat has offered his considerable experience in dealing with medical issues at high altitude and in the field of infectious diseases to international organisations for over thirty years. This includes his 20-year relationship as a volunteer for the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. The Kathmandu-based clinician’s professional background has involved significant research into high altitude sickness. On the frontline, he has acted as the principal investigator in studies and randomised controlled trials into...

UIAA MEMBERS REPORT ON LATEST NATIONAL COVID-19 MEASURES

UIAA member associations from across the globe have shared information and resources related to Covid-19 and climbing. The UIAA’s own Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce will hold its next online meeting on 14 January. The Taskforce will discuss the escalating issues in certain countries and the impact and progress of vaccination programmes. Following the meeting, the UIAA will publish its latest international guidelines and advice for climbing. Below is a summary of information recently provided by UIAA...

BRNO HOSTS ROUND 2 OF EUROPEAN CUP SEASON

The second event in the 2020-2021 UIAA Ice Climbing season, partnered by Outdoor Research, was held on 12 December. 42 athletes contested a European Cup in Brno, Czech Republic. The"Dry Tool Cup Brno 2020" competition took place on a pillar by the Brno dam. This event acted as both the international Championship of the Czech Republic and at the same time the second event of UIAA European Cup 2020/2021. Thanks to the commitment of the members of the...

UIAA PUBLISHES 2019 CARBON FOOTPRINT REPORT

In response to the UIAA’s signed commitment in early 2019 and participation under the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Sports for Climate Action (S4CA) the UIAA has started monitoring and reporting on its carbon footprint. As a participant in the S4CA initiative, the UIAA is required and expected to adhere to five principles these being: Principle 1: Undertake systematic efforts to promote greater environmental responsibility; Principle 2: Reduce overall climate impact; Principle 3: Educate for climate action; Principle 4: Promote sustainable and responsible consumption; and Principle 5: Advocate for climate action through...

2021 GREETINGS

The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – wishes its member associations, partners, delegates, athletes and friends all the very best for the New Year. The year 2020 has proven to be a challenging time globally. In the face of these difficulties, the UIAA is extremely proud of the solidarity shown by the international climbing community and is grateful for the continued commitment and support provided by its members, partners and volunteers. The UIAA is looking forward...

UIAA SAFECOM ANSWERS YOUR QUESTIONS:
Bolts near edges

The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – regularly receives questions related to safety topics. The UIAA Safety Commission, with support of other UIAA Commissions and experts, recently commenced a series of articles answering common questions with the objective of making them available to the wider climbing community. This month’s question is: What are your recommendations when it comes to bolts near edges? I have seen many expansion bolts like 5cm next to the top of...