BMC GUIDE TO BOLTING

The UIAA is sharing a guide produced by one of its member associations, the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC's bolt advice come in two parts. Part one is aimed at the user, in particular those who have learnt to climb indoors and are making the transition outside. Part two is an essential guide to good practice for people placing bolts, covering all of the important issues which must be addressed in order to do this competently and...

THE UIAA ON THE DEVASTATING AUSTRALIAN BUSHFIRES

The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – would like to extend its sympathy to all those affected by the devastating and unprecedented fires currently enveloping many areas of Australia. Australia is recognised by the global mountaineering community for the scale and high quality of climbing offered and for decades Australians have featured amongst the world’s top rock climbers and mountaineers. As of 15 January, 28 people had lost their lives as a result of the...

ICE CLIMBING: EXPERIENCE TO THE FORE IN CHEONGSONG

If the opening round of the 2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup season, partnered by Outdoor Research, heralded the rise of a new generation, round 2 of the season witnessed some emphatic statements by athletes who have dominated the World Tour throughout recent seasons. Experience was key. Three of last year’s winners in South Korea returned to triumph again. It was also a terrific weekend for Russia who took all four gold medals. Two Swiss...

MEDCOM: CONTRACEPTION AND PERIOD CONTROL AT ALTITUDE

The UIAA's latest extract from its Medical Commission's high-altitude advice papers focuses on contraception and period control at altitude. This paper is primarily intended for doctors, non-medical persons and trekking/expedition operators and takes into account is the fact that a large proportion of women do not principally use contraception during their travel for contraceptive reasons but for regulating and controlling their periods. The paper is available in English, Czech, Farsi, German and Italian and was...

CHEONGSONG: A POPULAR VENUE, A SEMINAL WEEKEND

The stage is set for the second instalment of the 2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup season as the sport makes its annual visit to Cheongsong, South Korea. This weekend, 10-12 January, and with the support of the Korean Alpine Federation, a decisive round of action lies ahead. Partisan support and outstanding hospitality is always guaranteed in the resort of Cheongsong, as athletes test themselves against the challenging and technical ice structure set in front...

HONOURED ON TWO CONTINENTS: LLOYD GALLAGHER

Lloyd "Kiwi" Gallagher was recently granted Honorary Membership of the New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC). Lloyd made many ascents in New Zealand and was a member of a successful NZAC expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru. However, it was primarily for his many contributions to mountaineering and the guiding profession in Canada that the NZAC bestowed this honour on Lloyd. Since arriving in Canada from his native New Zealand in 1965, Gallagher forged his place in...

Statement on Proposed Changes in Nepali Mountaineering Regulations

Following recent headlines about the climbing and trekking industry in Nepal, the Alpine Club has issued this statement, written in collaboration with the BMC, the UIAA and the mountain guides body the IFMGA, highlighting some of the issues facing the Nepali government and how we might help in its efforts to drive out bad practice and secure the future of mountain tourism in Nepal. The last few pre-monsoon seasons on Everest have generated a great number of negative...

NEW PODIUM STARS EMERGE AT WORLD CUP OPENER

The first act of the 2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup season proved to be a terrific event for France. In the men’s lead competition, youngster Louna Ladevant claimed a first ever World Cup gold with compatriot Marion Thomas (main photo) securing bronze in a pulsating female competition. The results come after intense and extensive pre-season from the team. Nearly 80 athletes competed in the competition in Changchun City, China. This year’s World Tour, partnered...

PREVIEW: ROUND 1 OF UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP SEASON

The UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup season, partnered by Outdoor Research, gets underway with a first visit to Changchun City in China’s Jilin Province from 3-5 January 2020.  This will be the third different location to play host to the event in China, following previous visits to Beijing and Hohhot. The event is organised with the support of the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA). [vc_row css_animation="" row_type="row" use_row_as_full_screen_section="no" type="full_width" text_align="left" box_shadow_on_row="no"][vc_column][vc_video link="https://youtu.be/qI__td-Y7UA" align="center"][/vc_column][/vc_row] Three days of competition lay...

WORLD TOUR PREVIEW: INTENSE ICE CLIMBING AWAITS

The UIAA World Tour 2019-2020, partnered by Outdoor Research, began in earnest with Bern, Switzerland playing host to the opening European Cup event on 23 November. This was one of four European Cup events held as part of a wider Continental season, allowing athletes to have more opportunities to compete in between the main World Cup events. Fewer events, greater focus Owing partly to some logistical and organizational constraints and a desire to place greater focus on...