UIAA STATEMENT:
2019 MOUNT EVEREST CLIMBING SEASON

All member associations of the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) extend their sincerest condolences to the families and friends of those who lost their lives on Mount Everest recently. The UIAA views the tragic events on Mount Everest with considerable distress and disquiet. The majority of incidents during the 2019 climbing season have occurred due to mass overcrowding on the southern route on the Nepalese side of the mountain. The UIAA calls for all stakeholders to engage in urgent dialogue to work...

ALPINE SKILLS: HOW TO SECURE THE CRUX OF A ROPE

Assistance and gentle reassurance can be helpful when moving the group over an exposed section, where a fall would be serious; or you can install a safety line or fixed rope. In either case, do not hesitate to rope up less experienced or less skilled hikers if a fall would prove injurious or fatal.  Safety Line Munter Knot: Source: UIAA Alpine Skills: Summer, Blandine Reynard A safety line is installed by fixing a rope to an existing anchor such as pitons or...

Slovenia celebrates the 40th anniversary of its first Mount Everest ascent

The following article is provided by Mag. Franc Ekar, former President of PZS – Alpine Association of Slovenia, a UIAA member association. On 13 May, 1979 at 13.51 Nepalese time, two Slovenian members of the 'First Yugoslav Alpine Expedition Everest 1979', succeeded in ascending and reaching the top of the highest mountain in the world. They were Jernej (Nejc) Zaplotnik and Andrej Štremfelj.The climbers were both members of the Alpine Club Kranj and Alpine Section...

IMPORTANT CALLS FOR EQUIPMENT CHECKS

The UIAA is sharing details of two recent safety notifications from gear manufacturers. The first was issued on 22 March, 2019 by Edelrid, who called on the owners of the "Turn" pulley to check the riveting of these pulleys. This affects batch XXXX 18-150. Please note that XXXX stands for an individual sequential number and is irrelevant for this inspection. Their message states: A pulley with a defective rivet was discovered. On one pulley, the axle holding the roller...

BAKU HOSTS ANNUAL UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION COMMISSION MEETING

This year’s Mountain Protection (MP) commission meeting took place in Baku, Azerbaijan following a formal and welcome invitation from Commission member and FAIREX representative Hussain Bagirov. The meeting took place at the new campus facilities of the Mountain Culture and Landscape Research Institute, Western Caspian University, whose staff provided exceptional state-of-the-art support for online connection to those members and UIAA Office staff who could not attend the session in person. Six delegates were present in...

A REVIEW OF ALL UIAA SPRING MEETINGS IN MALTA

Expertly hosted by the Malta Climbing Club (MCC) in early May, the UIAA Spring Meetings provided an opportunity for close collaboration between various organs of the UIAA – notably Management Committee, Commissions, Office as well as representatives from member associations. Three Commission meetings – Access, Ice Climbing and Safety – were also held as part of the Conference. These followed the biannual MC meeting. Combined meetings were also organised to foster greater collaboration between Commissions on mutual projects. Delegates...

2018-19 UIAA ICE CLIMBING SEASON REVIEW:
STARS ON ICE

The 2018-2019 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour concluded in mid March with the biennial World Championships held in Kirov, Russia. This was the final act in an incredible season which witnessed three formats of World Championships, six World Cups as well as four European Cup events. Competitions were hosted on three continents and in ten countries. Across the 13 events, 187 athletes competed representing 29 national federations. World Cup gold medallists came from Russia, South Korea...

Registration open for 2019 Youth Climbing Camp in Ariege

Registration is open for the UIAA Global Youth event in Ariege, France. The camp takes place from 6-11 July and is open to youngsters from 16-25 years old. The event is organised by the UIAA Youth Commission and the Toulouse branch of FFCAM. The main goal of the camp is to practice many forms of climbing, cliffs with one pitch, or routes with many pitches, on different types of rock, granite or limestone. Full programme and registration...

GLOBAL YOUTH EVENT: MOUNT KAZBEK MOUNTAINEERING CAMP

The Mountaineering & Climbing Association of Georgia and Club Mountain Traveller (CMT) is pleased to invite young members of UIAA Associations to this year’s international youth "Mountaineering School" in Georgia. The event forms part of the UIAA's Global Youth Series. The full programme and details on how to register can be found here. Dates: 23 – 30 July (exact dates may be changed by 1-2 days depending on flight availability but any changes will be displayed as...

UIAA ADVICE:
TEN THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING CLIMBING GEAR

The following guidelines refer principally to climbing equipment covered by the UIAA Safety Standards. This includes, but is not limited to braking devices, carabiners, crampons, crash pads, harnesses, helmets, ice tools, ropes and slings. The full list of Standards can be found here.1. Conduct thorough research. Ensure the piece of gear you are buying is suited to the type of activity you intend to pursue. Read product reviews from independent sources. 2. Always read and heed...