UIAA Medical Advice: Emergency Field Management of ACS, HAPE and HACE

Acute mountain sickness (AMS), high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) are the most important and most common altitude-related diseases. Up to altitudes of about 5000-6000m, symptoms of altitude illness are a direct result of inadequate acclimatization. The UIAA Medical Commission has produced a dedicated paper titled ‘Emergency Field Management of Acute Mountain Sickness, High Altitude Pulmonary Edema, and High Altitude Cerebral Edema’. The latest edition was published in 2012 and is...

MOUNTAIN SKILLS: Equipment for an ice, snow, rock or mixed route

The latest article from the UIAA Mountain Skills provides recommendations for equipment for an ice, snow, rock or mixed route. Adapt this list accordingly to the difficulty and conditions of your chosen climb. Head: warm knit cap helmet scarf sunscreen > SPF 30 lip balm > SPF 30 sunglasses (protection level IV) Top: long-sleeved breathable undershirt 1 waterproof breathable shell jacket 1 fleece jacket 1 lightweight insulated jacket or vest 1 pair of snow gloves 1 pair of...

DISCUSSING ACCESS TO THE MOUNTAINS OF NEPAL

With eight of the fourteen world's highest mountain peaks located within its borders, Nepal is well known as one of the greatest destinations for climbing and mountaineering. From Everest to Kanchenjunga, its mountains have created legends and have inspired incredible feats of human endeavours. Over recent years, the climbing and mountaineering community, often through UIAA member federations, has expressed its concern regarding increased restrictions proposed by Government of Nepal. The latest plans, muted at the close...