Submit examples of climbing anchor corrosion

The UIAA Safety Commission is looking for samples of failed climbing anchors to assist in several related matters with the UIAA Climbing Anchor Standard UIAA 123. The Anchor Corrosion project is part of the UIAA's commitment to continually researching and innovating in order to further develop its international standards for climbing equipment. The UIAA SafeCom team dedicated to the project are studying factors ranging from the impact of temperature and humidity, pollution and chlorides on...

KEY DISCUSSION AND DECISION POINTS FROM UIAA EXECUTIVE BOARD

With the objective of providing UIAA member federations with more timely updates related to UIAA operations and in particular decisions taken at Executive Board level, the UIAA will publish Key Discussion and Decision Points from all future EB meetings. The first such document - from the 12 May meeting in Lisbon, Portugal - is now available and can be downloaded here. The documents will be available to view at all times in our Members’ Area. Information related to...

A GLOBAL COMMITMENT TO CLIMBER SAFETY

Uniting representatives from global climbing equipment manufacturers and testing laboratories and national delegates from UIAA member associations, the annual UIAA SafeCom meet is a crucial opportunity for leading players in the field of mountain safety to discuss the current challenges facing the climbing world and to present progress on innovations and developments. This year’s session was held in Porto, Portugal from 14-16 May and hosted by Clube Nacional de Montanhismo CNM. For the first time chaired...

FROM THE ARCHIVES: 
THE VERY FIRST UIAA NEWSLETTER

The year was 1957.  The month December. Written in French and produced on seven A4 sheets of stapled, typewritten paper, the first UIAA Bulletin was conceived. The Bulletin, produced regularly over the following four decades, was the forerunner for the newsletters and news releases produced digitally by the UIAA today. The inaugural Bulletin opened: “Following the decision taken at the General Assembly in Trento, the Executive Committee has the pleasure of sharing the first of its...

UIAA COMMITMENT TO MOUNTAIN PROTECTION CONTINUES TO EVOLVE

The Lake District, one of the United Kingdom’s most impressive and distinctive outdoor environments, provided a fitting backdrop for the recent annual meeting of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission (MPC). Responsible for the developments of some of the UIAA’s most important international projects, the Commission reflected on the achievements and progress made over the past twelve months and some of the challenges and opportunities which lie ahead. Representing the Commission were President Dr Carolina Adler (NZAC -...

MOUNTAIN SKILLS: WHAT GEAR TO BRING. SINGLE AND MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING

The latest extract from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook focuses on gear requirements for single and multi-pitch climbing and features as part of a chapter dedicated to Equipment. In climbing, safety starts with choosing the right equipment. Knowing the difference between a double rope and a twin rope, knowing how to use the various types of carabiners, and tying a reliable knot are all part of a climbing leader's knowledge base. Climbers rely heavily on...

2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award.
Still Time to Apply

The UIAA thanks the organisations and projects who have submitted their application as part of the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award. For initiatives interested in application for this year's Award, or would like to share this article with anyone who may be interested, please find some important details below. Who can apply? The UIAA MPA platform is open to all UIAA member federations, as well as other associations or institutions whose activities are directly related to mountaineering...

Advice for women going to altitude

The tenth in our series exploring the UIAA MedCom’s high-altitude advice focuses on women going to altitude with specific advice for both pregnant and non-pregnant women. This paper was first produced in 2008 and is available in English, Czech, Dutch, German, Italian, Japanese, Persian, Polish, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. Advice pertinent to non-pregnant women Altitude mountain sickness (AMS) There is no known difference between men and women in the incidence of AMS. The incidence of high-altitude pulmonary edema...

THE DAWN WALL. WINNER OF UIAA PRIZE AT THE 2018 TRENTO FILM FESTIVAL

The Dawn Wall, a film which portrays Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's epic attempt to scale the 3,000ft (914m) rock face of the same name in January 2015, was named as the winner of the UIAA prize at the 66th Trento Film Festival on Saturday 5 May. The United States/Austria production directed by Josh Lowell (also shortlisted for the UIAA prize with Above The Sea) and Peter Mortimer was chosen by the UIAA Award Panel from...