UIAA Newsletter, April 2018, now published

The UIAA Newsletter for April 2018 is now available to view. An active month across the three pillars of the UIAA. The importance of climber safety and advancements in the UIAA's Training Programmes were among the key topics discussed at a recent UIAA Mountaineering Commission meeting. The latest articles in the UIAA's Summer Skills Series focus on two key topics - how to plan a route and recognising the different stages of frostbite. The UIAA continues to play an active...

MOUNTAIN SKILLS: TREATING FROSTBITE IN THE FIELD

Our recent article, How Frostbite Occurs, assessed how frostbite develops and its different stages. This related extract from the UIAA Alpine Skills Summer handbook focuses on treating frostbite in the field. At basecamp or in a shelter Warm, sweet fluids. Aspirin: 500 to 1,000 mg (unless otherwise indicated) for pain and to prevent clotting in the small vessels. How to quickly rewarm Hot water at 37 to 38° C + antiseptic, 30 minutes to 1 hour. Continue adding heat to maintain a...

ICE CLIMBING COMMISSION REFLECTS ON
SUCCESSFUL SEASON

A few weeks after the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season concluded with a dramatic World Cup showdown in Kirov, Russia, the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission met for its annual meeting to reflect on the recent World Tour series and to develop plans for 2019 and beyond. Members from the Commission, including two of the recently-elected athlete representatives, as well as personnel from the UIAA Office and Executive Board gathered in Busteni, Romania at the invitation...

YoungOne Corporation extends support of UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour

Following the conclusion of the 2018 season, long-term supporters of ice climbing, YoungOne Corporation, extended its agreement with the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour until 2024. The brand(s) under the YoungOne Corporation umbrella to be visible over the next five years will be confirmed in due course. "I take this opportunity to wholeheartedly thank the YoungOne Corporation for their continued support and commitment. The wonderful sport of ice climbing continues to flourish. The UIAA is delighted...

Registration open for UIAA Youth mountaineering event on Mount Kazbek

On behalf of the UIAA Youth Commission and the Mountaineering & Climbing Association of Georgia, registration for the UIAA Global Youth Series event on Mount Kazbek, Georgia is now open. The event runs from 23-30 July and is open to youngsters over 16 years of age. The trip is centred around encouraging teamwork, teaching core climbing and mountaineering skills and comprises a summit attempt of Kazbek (5047m), one of the highest and beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The...

TRAINING AND SAFETY KEY TOPICS DISCUSSED AT MOUNTAINEERING COMMISSION MEETING

The UIAA Mountaineering Commission held its latest meeting in Lisbon, Portugal, in April 2018. The meeting, which was hosted by the Federação de Campismo e Montanhismo de Portugal (FCMP), was attended by 11 delegates from nine different countries. Pedro Cuiça (Head of Training, FCMP) welcomed everyone and gave an interesting overview of the FCMP, which has 600 clubs and 40,000 members, eight camping parks and a climbing training headquarters. He highlighted issues facing their instructors...

EUMA and the UIAA start collaboration

Delegations from the EUMA (European Union of Mountaineering Associations) and the UIAA (International Climbing & Mountaineering Federation) Executive Boards met in February in Brussels to discuss the relationship and future collaboration between the two organisations. Throughout a productive and friendly meeting, the EUMA and the UIAA delegations emphasised their mutual interest in an efficient and close collaboration. With this in mind, EUMA and the UIAA’s strategic priorities will work in synergy to ensure member federations’ funds...

Online climbing gear: are you buying safe equipment?

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) recently published a guide regarding the potential perils of buying climbing equipment online, notably the abundance of non-certified equipment offered by dubious sellers. The UIAA endorses the BMC article which advises buying gear 'which conform(s) to the relevant CEN or UIAA standard, which is usually mentioned in the product description'. The UIAA also invites climbers to read an interview with former UIAA Safety Commission President Dave Custer which addressed the subject of...

ASIAN MOUNTAINEERING COMMUNITY UNITES TO SUPPORT NEPAL RECOVERY     

Delegates from UIAA member, Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA), recently visited areas of Nepal affected by April 2015’s devastating earthquake to assess the recovery in person. Together with several other mountaineering and outdoor organisations in Japan, the JMSCA has helped raise significant funds in the aftermath of the earthquake. The money donated by the Japanese bodies has been spent primarily on education. The first phase witnessed the rebuilding of a school located in the...

Mountain Skills: How frostbite occurs

The higher we climb, the colder it gets: atmospheric air temperature drops by 1.2 degrees for every 200 metres of elevation gain, or six degrees per 1,000 metres. Meanwhile, extended physical exertion requires extra energy at higher elevations. Thus when you feel drained due to poor nutrition, your body will have trouble producing heat. At first you begin to feel the cold in your extremities; it then spreads to your vital organs. A chapter in...