FROM THE ARCHIVES: 
THE VERY FIRST UIAA NEWSLETTER

The year was 1957.  The month December. Written in French and produced on seven A4 sheets of stapled, typewritten paper, the first UIAA Bulletin was conceived. The Bulletin, produced regularly over the following four decades, was the forerunner for the newsletters and news releases produced digitally by the UIAA today. The inaugural Bulletin opened: “Following the decision taken at the General Assembly in Trento, the Executive Committee has the pleasure of sharing the first of its...

UIAA COMMITMENT TO MOUNTAIN PROTECTION CONTINUES TO EVOLVE

The Lake District, one of the United Kingdom’s most impressive and distinctive outdoor environments, provided a fitting backdrop for the recent annual meeting of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission (MPC). Responsible for the developments of some of the UIAA’s most important international projects, the Commission reflected on the achievements and progress made over the past twelve months and some of the challenges and opportunities which lie ahead. Representing the Commission were President Dr Carolina Adler (NZAC -...

MOUNTAIN SKILLS: WHAT GEAR TO BRING. SINGLE AND MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING

The latest extract from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook focuses on gear requirements for single and multi-pitch climbing and features as part of a chapter dedicated to Equipment. In climbing, safety starts with choosing the right equipment. Knowing the difference between a double rope and a twin rope, knowing how to use the various types of carabiners, and tying a reliable knot are all part of a climbing leader's knowledge base. Climbers rely heavily on...

2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award.
Still Time to Apply

The UIAA thanks the organisations and projects who have submitted their application as part of the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award. For initiatives interested in application for this year's Award, or would like to share this article with anyone who may be interested, please find some important details below. Who can apply? The UIAA MPA platform is open to all UIAA member federations, as well as other associations or institutions whose activities are directly related to mountaineering...

Advice for women going to altitude

The tenth in our series exploring the UIAA MedCom’s high-altitude advice focuses on women going to altitude with specific advice for both pregnant and non-pregnant women. This paper was first produced in 2008 and is available in English, Czech, Dutch, German, Italian, Japanese, Persian, Polish, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. Advice pertinent to non-pregnant women Altitude mountain sickness (AMS) There is no known difference between men and women in the incidence of AMS. The incidence of high-altitude pulmonary edema...

THE DAWN WALL. WINNER OF UIAA PRIZE AT THE 2018 TRENTO FILM FESTIVAL

The Dawn Wall, a film which portrays Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's epic attempt to scale the 3,000ft (914m) rock face of the same name in January 2015, was named as the winner of the UIAA prize at the 66th Trento Film Festival on Saturday 5 May. The United States/Austria production directed by Josh Lowell (also shortlisted for the UIAA prize with Above The Sea) and Peter Mortimer was chosen by the UIAA Award Panel from...

UIAA Newsletter, April 2018, now published

The UIAA Newsletter for April 2018 is now available to view. An active month across the three pillars of the UIAA. The importance of climber safety and advancements in the UIAA's Training Programmes were among the key topics discussed at a recent UIAA Mountaineering Commission meeting. The latest articles in the UIAA's Summer Skills Series focus on two key topics - how to plan a route and recognising the different stages of frostbite. The UIAA continues to play an active...

MOUNTAIN SKILLS: TREATING FROSTBITE IN THE FIELD

Our recent article, How Frostbite Occurs, assessed how frostbite develops and its different stages. This related extract from the UIAA Alpine Skills Summer handbook focuses on treating frostbite in the field. At basecamp or in a shelter Warm, sweet fluids. Aspirin: 500 to 1,000 mg (unless otherwise indicated) for pain and to prevent clotting in the small vessels. How to quickly rewarm Hot water at 37 to 38° C + antiseptic, 30 minutes to 1 hour. Continue adding heat to maintain a...

ICE CLIMBING COMMISSION REFLECTS ON
SUCCESSFUL SEASON

A few weeks after the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season concluded with a dramatic World Cup showdown in Kirov, Russia, the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission met for its annual meeting to reflect on the recent World Tour series and to develop plans for 2019 and beyond. Members from the Commission, including two of the recently-elected athlete representatives, as well as personnel from the UIAA Office and Executive Board gathered in Busteni, Romania at the invitation...