MOUNTAIN SKILLS: WHAT GEAR TO BRING. SINGLE AND MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING

The latest extract from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook focuses on gear requirements for single and multi-pitch climbing and features as part of a chapter dedicated to Equipment. In climbing, safety starts with choosing the right equipment. Knowing the difference between a double rope and a twin rope, knowing how to use the various types of carabiners, and tying a reliable knot are all part of a climbing leader's knowledge base. Climbers rely heavily on...

2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award.
Still Time to Apply

The UIAA thanks the organisations and projects who have submitted their application as part of the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award. For initiatives interested in application for this year's Award, or would like to share this article with anyone who may be interested, please find some important details below. Who can apply? The UIAA MPA platform is open to all UIAA member federations, as well as other associations or institutions whose activities are directly related to mountaineering...

Advice for women going to altitude

The tenth in our series exploring the UIAA MedCom’s high-altitude advice focuses on women going to altitude with specific advice for both pregnant and non-pregnant women. This paper was first produced in 2008 and is available in English, Czech, Dutch, German, Italian, Japanese, Persian, Polish, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. Advice pertinent to non-pregnant women Altitude mountain sickness (AMS) There is no known difference between men and women in the incidence of AMS. The incidence of high-altitude pulmonary edema...

THE DAWN WALL. WINNER OF UIAA PRIZE AT THE 2018 TRENTO FILM FESTIVAL

The Dawn Wall, a film which portrays Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's epic attempt to scale the 3,000ft (914m) rock face of the same name in January 2015, was named as the winner of the UIAA prize at the 66th Trento Film Festival on Saturday 5 May. The United States/Austria production directed by Josh Lowell (also shortlisted for the UIAA prize with Above The Sea) and Peter Mortimer was chosen by the UIAA Award Panel from...

UIAA Newsletter, April 2018, now published

The UIAA Newsletter for April 2018 is now available to view. An active month across the three pillars of the UIAA. The importance of climber safety and advancements in the UIAA's Training Programmes were among the key topics discussed at a recent UIAA Mountaineering Commission meeting. The latest articles in the UIAA's Summer Skills Series focus on two key topics - how to plan a route and recognising the different stages of frostbite. The UIAA continues to play an active...

MOUNTAIN SKILLS: TREATING FROSTBITE IN THE FIELD

Our recent article, How Frostbite Occurs, assessed how frostbite develops and its different stages. This related extract from the UIAA Alpine Skills Summer handbook focuses on treating frostbite in the field. At basecamp or in a shelter Warm, sweet fluids. Aspirin: 500 to 1,000 mg (unless otherwise indicated) for pain and to prevent clotting in the small vessels. How to quickly rewarm Hot water at 37 to 38° C + antiseptic, 30 minutes to 1 hour. Continue adding heat to maintain a...

ICE CLIMBING COMMISSION REFLECTS ON
SUCCESSFUL SEASON

A few weeks after the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season concluded with a dramatic World Cup showdown in Kirov, Russia, the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission met for its annual meeting to reflect on the recent World Tour series and to develop plans for 2019 and beyond. Members from the Commission, including two of the recently-elected athlete representatives, as well as personnel from the UIAA Office and Executive Board gathered in Busteni, Romania at the invitation...

YoungOne Corporation extends support of UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour

Following the conclusion of the 2018 season, long-term supporters of ice climbing, YoungOne Corporation, extended its agreement with the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour until 2024. The brand(s) under the YoungOne Corporation umbrella to be visible over the next five years will be confirmed in due course. "I take this opportunity to wholeheartedly thank the YoungOne Corporation for their continued support and commitment. The wonderful sport of ice climbing continues to flourish. The UIAA is delighted...

Registration open for UIAA Youth mountaineering event on Mount Kazbek

On behalf of the UIAA Youth Commission and the Mountaineering & Climbing Association of Georgia, registration for the UIAA Global Youth Series event on Mount Kazbek, Georgia is now open. The event runs from 23-30 July and is open to youngsters over 16 years of age. The trip is centred around encouraging teamwork, teaching core climbing and mountaineering skills and comprises a summit attempt of Kazbek (5047m), one of the highest and beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The...