The UIAA’s work throughout the past decade on the subject of rock anchors, stress corrosion and bolting has been extensive. A summary of key information can be found here.
As part of its commitment to raising awareness about issues related to anchor and stress corrosion cracking at a grassroots level, the UIAA, in collaboration with its member associations, is embarking on a number of workshops. A pilot event was held over the summer in the Republic of North Macedonia, in partnership with UIAA full member Mountaineering Federation of North Macedonia. Climbers from the Albanian Mountaineering Federation also attended.
Uniting members of the UIAA Office, UIAA Safety Commission, a manufacturer, regional climbing federations and experienced local bolters, the workshop was divided into both an information and a practical session. In the former the UIAA offered updates on the wealth of research it has recently published on the subject as well as the current progress being made in certifying products to the revised UIAA Standard 123 for Rock Anchors. In the second part, two new routes were established at two crags: Mavrovo Cave and French Wall.
Learnings and Next Steps
Perhaps the most significant subject that came out of this meeting was the idea about creating an entity with the UIAA to specifically focus on bolting. This could involve members of the UIAA Safety Commission and the future development of an entity within the UIAA more specifically dedicated to Rock Climbing.
Future sessions should also allow more time to teach bolting techniques.
The UIAA is looking at replicating this meeting in other parts of the world including in South America (Brazil) and in North America.
Members interested in organising future workshops, with the presence of regional members of the UIAA Safety Commission and equipment manufacturers, are invited to contact: safetylabel@theuiaa.org
Photos courtesy of Philippe Quintart / Dimitar Popov
